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Busa-"Chassis"

Hayabusa "Chassis" Bearings etc.
dimensions

 

There is simply no motorcycle on which a bearing does not wear out at some point.

This can happen, especially with the Hayabusa, where the bearings are subjected to extreme loads due to the high speeds.

In my experience, especially the wheel bearings are very often "due" after 50-60,000 km at the latest - regardless of whether they are Gen I or Gen II.

(I already had to swap the front of a Gen II at 38,300 km and the rear was due at 38,900 km!)

 

However, it should be urgently warned against installing any bearings that still have additional abbreviations, just because they are lying around in the company or you can get them from someone for free!

You will almost certainly do the work for nothing!

 

But if you go to the bearing supplier with the names given below and ask about wheel bearings, he will definitely sell you the right bearing.

 

A little hint:

If you carefully ! heat the bearing seat (e.g. in the rim) with a hot air dryer to approx. 60-80 ° C and place the bearing itself in the freezer before using it for approx. 1-2 hours (packed) at -18 ° C, the assembly goes a lot easier.

 

Standard bearing designations

Additions:

Z = one-sided steel cover plate (non-rubbing seal) against coarse contamination

ZZ = double-sided steel cover plate (non-rubbing seal) against coarse contamination

2RS / 2HRS = "rubber" seal on both sides (rubbing seal) against dust and moisture

 

In the case of bearings with sealing washers, grease can leak out from the inner ring under extreme operating conditions. So don't panic if some grease leaks out of the bearing in the sprocket pot over time. (personal experience)

 

Manufacturers of the new bearings are usually FAG, INA, Timken, TOYO or SKF.

(if it's different, they are explicitly named by name)

 

Note on the oil seals in the rims:

If you install closed bearings (2RS) on both sides, the “Simmerrings” / seals are basically only there to hold the respective spacer sleeve in the middle and to keep the coarsest dirt away from the bearing.

The water-repellent function of the “Simmerrings” / seals is no longer necessary with the new bearing because the seal against penetrating water is now made in the bearing itself.

 

When re-installing the wheel, in my opinion you can safely use the old “Simmerrings” / seals at least once,

were they driven out together with the bearings

and not previously levered out and damaged or even completely destroyed in the process.

And even if they are a little bent, you can safely knock them in again with gentle hammer blows.

You should definitely always apply a finger full of bearing grease to the inside.

 

Note on removing the wheel bearings:

If a sharp-edged internal extractor is not available, the bearings can only be removed by driving them out with a punch and a 500 gram hammer.

It should be noted that one side of the rim has a larger diameter on the inside than the other.

So there is space here to gently drive the spacer to the side with the punch and hammer so that the inner ring of the bearing to be driven out can be "caught" from the other side of the rim and the bearing can be driven out with alternating punches.

 

"alternating" means that you can only ONE! impact on the inner ring, then the opposite side of the inner ring with just ONE! impact applied and then changes back to the first side, back and forth until the bearing (including the “Simmerring” / sealing) falls out.

Which side this is for each rim can be seen from the pictures in the WHB.

If one bearing is outside, you can go to the other.

 

 

Warning # 1:

Anyone who has never done this bearing drive out should better go to someone who has experience with it, because incorrectly punched out it can destroy the bearing seat so permanently that the rim is just scrap!

Warning # 2:

A bearing that has been driven out with a hammer generally belongs in the metal scrap !

- a new one has to come in - otherwise it should lead to considerable issues very soon!

 

original spare part (A)   /   alternatives (B)

Řo   x   Ři   x   T/L   =    dia outside    x    dia inside   x   Thickness / Length

!  ALL dimensions in "milli meter" [ mm ]  !

1999 - 2007
xxGen Ixx

since 2008
Gen II

Nr.

"built in" - place

pcs.

 

Type / Art.-No.

Řo x Ři x T/L

additions

Type / Art.-No. Řo x Ři x T/L

1.1

Front Wheel

2

B 6205 - 2RS

   ( see X 1 ) 

 52 x 25 x 15

  identical

   ( see X 3 ) 

1.2

seal lh. + rh.

2

B  

52 x 32 x 7

  identical

1.3

Spacer betw. bearings

1

A art.-no. : 54731-33E10  /  length : 106,5 mm art.-no. : 54731-33E20  /
  length :  ? ?

2.1

Rear Wheel orig. 6 x 17"

@ Gen1 5,5 x 17 "BOD"

2

B

60 / 32, 2 RS

   ( see X 2 ) 

 58 x 32 x 13

KOYO + NSK

60 / 28, 2 RS

   ( see X 4 ) 

2.2

seal rh.

1

B  

58 x 38 x 7

  ? ?

2.3

Spacer betw. bearings

1

A art.-no. : 64731-33E10  /  length : 121,5 mm art.-no. : 64731-40F10  /
  length :  ? ?

3.1

Chain Drum
(sprocket carrier)

1

B

62 / 32, 2 RS

 65 x 32 x 17

KOYO + NSK identical

3.2

Simmerring

1

B  

65 x 39 x 7

  identical

4

Steering head

2

B 32006 X/Q
upper = lower

55 x 30 x 17

tapered roller bearings identical

5

Swingarm (Head)

2

A KOYO - BHTM3025-1

 40 x 30 x 25

only @ Suzuki identical

5.1

2

B SKF / INA - NK 30 / 30

 40 x 30 x 30

length fits ! identical

5.2

Spacer in bearings

2

A 61251-17E10

 30 x 25 x 35

only @ Suzuki identical

6

"Bones" to

Swing Arm

2

A KOYO - BKM2024JAU

 27 x 20 x 23,5

only @ Suzuki identical

6.1

2

B NSK - RLM 2025

INA
HK 27 x 20 x 25

length fits ! identical

6.2

Spacer in bearings

1

A 62626-24F00

12 x 20 x 93 o. 94

only @ Suzuki identical

7

"Bones" to

"Block"

2

A KOYO - BKM2024JAU

 27 x 20 x 23,5

Special-Needle bearing

identical

7.1

2

B NSK - RLM 2025

 INA
HK 27 x 20 x 25

length fits ! identical

7.2

Spacer in bearings

1

A 62626-24F00

12 x 20 x 93 o. 94

only @ Suzuki identical

8

Block to

Frame

1

A

KOYO - BKM2030JUU
BTM202730 o. MKM2030

 27 x 20 x 30

only @ Suzuki identical

8.1

2

B NSK - RLM 2015

 27 x 20 x 15

2 needle bearing
"2nd after 1st"
identical

8.2

Spacer in bearings

1

A 62684-12C00

12 x 20 x 32

only @ Suzuki identical

9

Rear Shock Absober to

"Block"

1

A KOYO - BHKM1726JUU

24 x 17 x 26

only @ Suzuki identical

9.1

1

B NSK - RLM 172425

24 x 17 x 25

needle bearing

identical

9.2

Spacer

1

A 62684-40A10

10 x 17 x 30

only @ Suzuki identical

10

Steering Damper

1

A

 09269-08003

17,5 x 8 x 11

Special Bearing
(similar ! to)

identical

11

Fork seals / "Simmerrings"

2

B

51153-02FA0 (Gen I)
or
51153-41G00 (Gen II)

43 x 55 x 9,5 / 10,5

  identical

12.1

Fork - Slider - Ring #1

2

B

 www.Franz Racing.de : AF434512KY

45 x 43 x 12

also @
www.pyramid-parts.com
"Outer Fork Bushes"

? ?

12.2

Fork - Slider - Ring #2

2

B

KTM : 43570618
Yamaha/XJR : 5EB23125-00

47 x 43 x 12

also @
www.pyramid-parts.com
"Outer Fork Bushes"

? ?

 

 

Finally - it's like LOTTERY here - All information without guarantee!

 

tabel 2 :

 

Installation sequence of the bearings in the rims according to Manual´s :

Gen I
(´99 - ´07)

( X 1 )

@ 1st   LH in then RH

GGen IIx
(since ´08)

( X 3 )

@ 1st   RH in then LH

( X 2 )

@ 1st   RH in then LH

( X 4 )

@ 1st   RH in then LH

 

 

here as a pdf to

Download

the entire text and table

formatted as "Letter"

from above