the middle jack
suitable for
all
Hayabusa |
Hi buddy,
so we know him from the
forums,
the so-called "Werner stand" |
and this one I got a
few years ago
bend and weld |
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click the pic once to open it in a separate tab |
Function of my version?
I think 1: 1 identical
to "Werner".
So if you have a good
pipe bending machine and a welding machine available, you can easily
build something like this. Dimensions - see below.
Only the crossbar
should be made from a really particularly rigid, i.e. high-alloy, steel
(C4 or so),
because a cheap 16
weight rod from "Hardware store around corner" etc. bends noticeably,
because their quality
is around 3.6 - 4.6. (here in Germany)
It's not really tragic,
because it definitely can't slide out and the dia 16 rod that I used
previously also held well until the end,
but confidence in the
construction was always somewhat diminished.
Possibly, you could
also use an M 16 threaded rod made of 8.8 grade.
I have not tested this
for cost reasons and because I simply already have this very rigid rod.
Material for the
lifter / "middle jack":
1.
approx. 1.4 m steel tube 1 "bent as an U with
B = 60 cm and
"H"
=
middle of swing arm axis
+ 30 mm
2.
2 x 50-100 mm
steel tube
seamless
1/2 "to hold the steel rod
3.
0,6 m
steel tube 1" - as a lever
4. 0,8
m rigid steel rod with Dia = 16 mm ==> swing axle all Hayabusa of all
years of construction,
Material: 42CrMoS4
5.
1 x threaded sleeve (welded
on the jack)
6.
1 x external thread 1 ", thread 1" long - welded on the lever (or
cut onto the lever pipe)
I have a second rigid
steel rod, with a diameter of 12, in the same quality and length as the
16, also for other bikes with a hollow (drilled through) swing arm axle.
If you only wanna lift
the rear wheel you can use this stand also here, if it has a
hollow (drilled through) wheel axle too.
If you want to have the
exact dimensions, just download the drawings below as a *.pdf.
(see end of
page)
Attention to the 1st:
Especially with the
Haya´s from 2008 and the mega fat, original, silencers, it is very easy
to touch and scratch them with the middle jack´s lever!
Attention to the 2nd:
When jacking up and
lowering again, you have to pay particular attention to the shift lever,
otherwise it is very easy to break it off. So happened to me in May 2016
on my (old) haya
connected with
subsequent
I giant
cow-like idiot!
If you don't have a
replacement on the shelf by accident, you look pretty stupid and will
consequently have a veritable deficit in your money bag!
Attention to the 3rd:
Anyone who has
installed a rear lift kit, like me - 30 mm - should put two small boards
20 x 20 x 1.5 cm underneath when jacking up, or you build another jack
with 10 mm longer, vertical sidearms.
This brings the rear
wheel higher and you can use a front lifter without the rear wheel
touching ground - if the rear wheel touches the ground the entire "construction"
may become a bit shaky and unsafe.
Get the rear wheel free
to ground !
So or with a thinner rod for
basically all bikes with hollow / drilled swing arms - usable axle.
By the way:
The long 16 rod made of 42CrMoS4 for
through the thru axle can be purchased in Germany here in a length of
1.0 meter:
all 3 drawings above
summarized in one pdf
to
Download
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