Function of my version?
I think 1: 1 identical to "Werner".
So if you have a good pipe bending machine and a welding machine available, you can easily build something like this. Dimensions - see below.
Only the crossbar should be made from a really particularly rigid, i.e. high-alloy, steel (C4 or so),
because a cheap 16 weight rod from "Hardware store around corner" etc. bends noticeably,
because their quality is around 3.6 - 4.6. (here in Germany)
It's not really tragic, because it definitely can't slide out and the dia 16 rod that I used previously also held well until the end,
but confidence in the construction was always somewhat diminished.
Possibly, you could also use an M 16 threaded rod made of 8.8 grade.
I have not tested this for cost reasons and because I simply already have this very rigid rod.
Material for the lifter / "middle jack":
1. approx. 1.4 m steel tube 1 "bent as an U with
B = 60 cm and
2. 2 x 50-100 mm steel tube seamless 1/2 "to hold the steel rod
3. 0,6 m steel tube 1" - as a lever
m rigid steel rod with Dia = 16 mm ==> swing axle all Hayabusa of all
years of construction,
5. 1 x threaded sleeve (welded on the jack)
6. 1 x external thread 1 ", thread 1" long - welded on the lever (or cut onto the lever pipe)
I have a second rigid steel rod, with a diameter of 12, in the same quality and length as the 16, also for other bikes with a hollow (drilled through) swing arm axle.
If you only wanna lift the rear wheel you can use this stand also here, if it has a hollow (drilled through) wheel axle too.
If you want to have the
exact dimensions, just download the drawings below as a *.pdf.
Attention to the 1st:
Especially with the Haya´s from 2008 and the mega fat, original, silencers, it is very easy to touch and scratch them with the middle jack´s lever!
Attention to the 2nd:
When jacking up and lowering again, you have to pay particular attention to the shift lever, otherwise it is very easy to break it off. So happened to me in May 2016 on my (old) haya
connected with subsequent
I giant cow-like idiot!
If you don't have a replacement on the shelf by accident, you look pretty stupid and will consequently have a veritable deficit in your money bag!
Attention to the 3rd:
Anyone who has installed a rear lift kit, like me - 30 mm - should put two small boards 20 x 20 x 1.5 cm underneath when jacking up, or you build another jack with 10 mm longer, vertical sidearms.
This brings the rear wheel higher and you can use a front lifter without the rear wheel touching ground - if the rear wheel touches the ground the entire "construction" may become a bit shaky and unsafe.
Get the rear wheel free to ground !
So or with a thinner rod for basically all bikes with hollow / drilled swing arms - usable axle.
By the way:
The long 16 rod made of 42CrMoS4 for through the thru axle can be purchased in Germany here in a length of 1.0 meter:
all 3 drawings above